I would like to buy a katana not to put on a shelve but to do some cutting what should I keep in mind before purchasing one tnx
You should keep in mind, first of all, that without instruction in Iaido/jutsu, Battojutsu or Kenjutsu, that you will be a danger to yourself and those around you. So first of all, make sure you have a qualified instructor. Second, only buy from reputable smiths like Paul Chen, Last Legend, Nine Circles, or Swordstore.com. Since you're posting here, I'm going to assume that you probably can't afford a custom made Shinken from Japan, so I'd go with the production-level Katana. Paul Chen's practical series is good, Nine Circles is supposed to be great quality and value, but they're based in the UK, which could be good or bad for you depending on where you are located. Swordstore.com's swords always get good reviews, but to my knowledge, are a little more expensive. Take a look around and compare prices. Oh, and DON"T BUY ANYTHING MADE OUT OF STAINLESS STEEL. Just don't. It's extremely likely to break and hurt you or someone else.
Things to look for in a Katana First of all, take what I tell you here with a grain of salt. A lot of people have a lot of ideas on what makes the best Katana, and not everyone agrees on every point. I'll try to restrict my advice to what the swordsmen and women of our dojo can commonly agree upon, but I'm sure a little editorial will slip in here and there. How picky you are going to be about this will probably depend on what you want to do with it. If it's just going to sit on a shelf, then the only thing that really matters is "Does it look good?" But since you've already said that's not the case, there will be other things to keep in mind. If all you want to do is impress your friends by swinging it around or see how many times you can slash a two-literr bottle before the water spills out, there's not a whole lot of things you really have to look for. What you do need to look for, however, are probably the most important of any that I'll list here. #1 - One pin or two? The first thing you should look at when selecting a Katana that you plan to swing around is the length of the tang (nakago). It should be long, almost as long as the hilt (tsuka) itself. Just as important, make sure that there are two pins (mekugi) holding the blade in place. If there is only one pin, the blade will want to pivot around that point when you swing it, putting a lot of stress onto the handle and eventually splitting tsuka as it tries to break free. The second pin disperses that energy enough that the hilt won't take nearly as much pressure. If the pins are metal, ditch them and buy some bamboo mekugi. When metal fails, it does so it a big way. . .When bamboo fails, there is usually enough strength in the fibers to prevent your blade from flying into a wall (or a friend). They are also easier (and less expensive) to replace. #2 - Function or fashion? Seems obvious, but make sure that your hands can grip the weapon comfortably. There are a lot of swords out there with very beautifully carved hilts that are almost impossible to keep a decent grip on. Last year I was given a pair of koshigatana with very beautiful, ornately carved tsuka, and I thought they were the coolest thing in the world until I realized that using them made my palms bleed. (They're still cool. . .they just have different tsuka now. ) Try to avoid plastic, even if it's wrapped. Wood is best (in my opinion), but make sure you get a non-resinous wood, as wood resins can weaken the steel of the blade. If it is wrapped (which it probably will be, as this strengthens the hilt around the tang), make sure that the material is not too slippery to hold onto while swinging (and especially stopping) the blade. If the tsuka is not a single piece (and most wooden tsuka are two pieces), make sure that there are metal caps (kashira and fuchi) at both ends of the handle holding it together. Look also at the length of the tsuka. I prefer to have at least two hand-widths between my hands when I'm holding a Katana. Some people prefer three, others try to get away with one. There are probably a few rules about it buried in tradition somewhere, but it's really going to come down to what you are comfortable with. It's a balancing act, in my experience. . .the longer the tsuka, the more power you can get into your cutting techniques, but you sacrifice a bit of range to do it. So you've got a sword that you can swing around comfortably and can survive most of your mistakes as you learn how use it, but now you want to try drawing the weapon as well. My first piece of advice here is not to learn drawing techniques with a live blade. . .your fingertips will thank you for it, and you'll spend much less time repairing or replacing your blade. #3 - Can you get the sword free of the saya? Make sure that when the Katana is sheathed at your hip that your arms are long enough to draw the blade free of the saya (scabbard/sheath). If you can't, you're going to hear a lot cracking as you split your saya trying to draw the sword. Make sure that the sword fits snugly into the saya and does not rattle around when you move with it. While you are learning drawing techniques, it might not be a bad idea to have some sort of metal collar or other reinforcement around the mouth of the saya, just to give it that much more protection (hey, mistakes happen). The down side of this is that while protecting your saya, it could damage your blade from the friction. As you get better this will matter less, and it's really a personal choice more than anything else. You've learned how to swing the sword, and your drawing techniques are top notch. . .but now you want a weapon to teach that ninja a lesson with the next time he sneaks into your apartment to raid your refridgerator. This is where my advice will really turn into opinion. #4 - Circles, ovals, and squares (oh my) When I look at a Katana to fight with, I won't go near a circular or oval-shaped guard (tsuba). I want at least two squared corners, particularly on the top of the weapon (along the mune, or dull side of the blade). The problem I have with round edges is that it allows a weapon that has been blocked to skip over the tsuba as it slides down the blade and hit your fingers. Now, a proper parry should send the opponent's weapon toward your tip (kissaki), but let's face it. . .Everyone who does any amount of sparring with weapons has had an opponent's weapon come out of nowhere and found themselves putting up their weapon in a block just to have something between them. If this is going to happen, it may as well be done properly, and taking the opponent's weapon toward your hand-guard is the best way to do it. A squared edge will stop the opponent's blade at your guard, but as I said a rounded edge is very likely to allow it to skip into your fingers. #5 - Can the saya take (and give) a beating? Since it has already been mentioned, I won't get into the structural integrity of the blade. The saya (scabbard) however, should also be able to take a bit of punishment. The saya is an awesome defensive tool when used as a shield. If you study techniques for two swords, the saya doubles easily as that second sword and can do some serious damage when wielded as a weapon, even if the saya is the only weapon you have. Just remember when you wield it that you don't have a guard protecting your hands. I hope that helps. If you have any specific questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'm sure someone in the forums will be able to help you. -Kurai Unkai
Things to look for in a katana: Look at the Paul Chen Practical Range of Katanas, they are good NOT stainless steel, Carbon steel Folded steel/woven steel blade Differentiatly tempered blade, RC40 along the spine (absorbs shock) and RC60 on the edge (good for cutting) FULL TANG ALWAYS Pinned into handle Reputable brand (Paul Chen, Cold Steel, Casiberia) because you know these will be good. Good Balance, this is what makes many swords so good. If its COG is nearer the tip you can do big long fluent slashes with the elbows stantionary, if its nearer the guard/grip you can get some quick wrist work in there Look for a PLAIN katana as well. For actualy MA work you want it plain rather than a lovely mantlepiece showpiece. When you are superb with your weapon you would maybe want to explore other styles of sword use and then when you are a master of the blade you should invest in a nice £1500 japense made weapon thats engraved to show your ability. Otherwise you'll trash it and waste your money
I'm just going to throw in my further 2 cents here. I wouldn't worry about the number of Mekugi-ana (Peg holes). There are a lot of Koto (Old school) Katana that have survived hundreds of years with only one Mekugi. The quality of the Tsuka (Handle) will determine it's survivability under pressure more than the number of Mekugi. Second, I would never buy anything for legitimate swordwork that didn't have a traditionally wrapped handle. Nothing carved (Especially not Highlander-style), nothing with Steak Knife handles (Flat wood grips, 2 piece). Stick with something with a cotton or silk Ito (Handle wrap). Paul Chen practical series are great, Last Legend, Cold Steel, Swordstore.com, Bugei, all of these will work as long as you pay for the quality.
